BUFFALO, N.Y. (WKBW) — If you looked through the ingredients of some of the products in your morning routine, who knows what you'd find on that laundry list.
But the FDA is proposing a ban on a product that's been popular in the Black community for years, used both at home and at salons: chemical relaxer with formaldehyde.
"It's long overdue...they should've done it long ago. They're causing cancer now, they're putting it out there," said Althea Williams-Little, owner of Hair To Go Natural salon on Main St. in Buffalo.
Chemical relaxer is a cream applied to curly hair textures that changes the chemical bonds to make hair straight. It's known to tingle and give burning sensations when applied.
Two Congresswomen sent the FDA a letter pushing for this change. It's something local experts have written about too.
"In order to protect public health, we urge the FDA to reevaluate the safety of these products," wrote Ayanna Pressley and Shontel Brown.
There's a lot to unpack here. Why does the FDA want to ban it? What are the risks? What does this mean for local businesses? So let's dig into this issue.
You'll hear from:
- Dr. Kimberly Bertrand, a cancer epidemiologist who's researched this
- Shanae Key, a former relaxer user
- Althea Williams-Little, a local natural hair stylist who supports the ban
- Jennifer Robertson, a local stylist who opposes the ban
The Doctor
"I think this is a great first step for the FDA," said Dr. Kimberly Bertrand, Epidemiologist and Associate Professor of Medicine at Boston University.
Dr. Bertrand is the lead author on the Black Women's Health Study which started in 1995.
She says these products can contain formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, or other chemicals that can be dangerous when heated. And this isn't always on the label.
"Chemicals can just be listed under a general ingredient label of fragrance or preservative," said Dr. Bertrand.
Her research finds older Black women who have regularly used relaxers have an increased risk of developing uterine cancer. But says the risks are just that.
"I really would like this research not to scare women, that's important to me that women are not feeling worried unnecessarily so it's important to remember these cancers are relatively rare," said Dr. Bertrand.
The Client
Shanae Key spent Monday morning in the chair getting a sleek new do, the natural way.
She grew up using relaxer, but stopped three years ago.
"The older I got the more I noticed what was happening to my scalp," said Key.
She noticed damage over time and says since going natural, her hair won't stop growing.
She hopes the FDA ruling will set the precedent for the next generation of girls, like her daughter.
"I wouldn't put any type of chemicals into her hair," it's not worth it in the long run.
The Stylist
"It's long overdue. It's long overdue," said Williams-Little.
She says her salon is the first natural hair care salon in the city. Since the Crown Act, more people have been embracing natural.
"Our crown and our beauty is Black hair, especially the care," said Williams-Little.
She wants stylists to band together on this issue.
"And pay attention to what's going on with our hair," said Williams-Little.
Another Stylist
Jennifer Robertson has been doing hair for 15 years, owns JNR Salon and Day Spa on Mohawk and has her own line of all kinds of products called Coiffure Majeure.
She does all kinds of styles, but says she still has a few clients that come in to get relaxers.
"You can absolutely maintain healthy hair with a relaxer, especially if you're coming into the salon on a regular basis," said Robertson.
She says she gets it and would never perform the service on anyone she deemed too young or who doesn't take proper care of their hair.
"If this is what your choice is, you should be able to get it," said Robertson.
What happens now?
This is still a proposal, so after public comment, the FDA will make a decision.
If the proposal becomes a rule, it will take effect in April 2024.
